Boss the Beard

Cheap, versatile and adaptable, facial hair can change the shape of a man’s face and completely alter how he looks in jeans and a T-shirt or even a suit.

A few whiskers here and there can make a baby face look older, draw attention away from a thinning thatch and hide a multitude of sins (or chins). In short, it allows a man to be the ultimate chameleon. You know, the history of beard dates back to prehistoric times when scientists believed that men grow facial hair for certain basic reasons, such as warmth, a natural shield of protection and a sign of intimidation. They were only ever cut as punishment, to mark the men who were not worthy of keeping their beards because of what they’d done.

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Apart from being a symbol of masculinity, beards among men have also been venerated at a higher level than almost anywhere else. Long beards stood for dignity and wisdom, strength and courage, and this is often the case today. Beards in these places were so revered that they were also used in the prosecution of crimes. In addition, men also pledged their beards for the payment of a debt. However, what’s more, despite the ‘peak beard’ protestations of clean-shaven style pundits and the wishful thinking of big bucks razor manufacturers, the beard is very much here to stay. The only question that a man has to ask about facial hair these days is which style to have, and that is why we have brought to you a style guide, covering everything from how to rock a smattering of stubble to how to tame a full on grizzly beard.

Stubble

Perfect for guys with baby faces, the stubble, back in the 1930s wasn’t quite the uber-cool style statement it is today. It was a sign that a man was lazy or down on his luck back then, unlike today when it’s a widely accepted halfway house between being clean-shaven and rocking a full-on Seasick Steve. Of all the facial hair styles available to man, stubble is the easiest to cultivate, the simplest to maintain and the one that suits most face shapes. Adding an instant bit of maturity, along with a sense of ruggedness, this trimmed look further tends to make weak jaws look stronger and provides good camouflage for imperfections like acne scars and uneven pigmentation. Given that a study by Northumbria University found women prefer men with stubble and with research from grooming brand Remington showing that one in five men actually feel sexier with a few days growth, it might just be your secret weapon come that hot date, too.

The Goatee

Short on effort, big on style, the goatee has long been the facial hair choice for rockstars, intellectuals and those with a wayward, rebellious streak. Essentially, this refers to any style featuring hair above the lip and on the chin only, sometimes connected to create a frame for the mouth. In short, the artistic, slightly villainous brother of the beard, look especially good on slim, angular faces (but don’t let them grow too long or they’ll make your face look too lean) and can make a round face look slightly slimmer. They’re also perfect if you struggle to grow a full beard or find that when you do it’s patchy and uneven.

The Beardstache

Falling somewhere between stubble and a full beard, the beardstache is a hybrid where the moustache is kept longer and fuller than the surrounding hair. It’s a polarising style that has been called everything from the hot new thing to the facial hair equivalent of a mullet, but when done right it oozes masculinity. Just use a beard trimmer to keep the hair around the chin and cheeks at an extended stubble length while growing the moustache so that the sides finish just lower than the bottom lip, but not beyond the jawline.

The Short Beard

A less lumberjack version of the full beard, the short beard is a more versatile, understated and office-friendly alternative — perfect if you’re fending off a boss who’s phobic of facial hair. A neatly trimmed beard will suit most face shapes, though you may need to tailor the angles to emphasise your best features and downplay your worst. If you’ve a round face, for example, you might want to reduce the length at the sides slightly to elongate the face. Similarly, leaving the sides slightly longer can help add width to a thin, narrow face. Blessed with a double chin? Try taking the beard down all the way to the Adam’s Apple to disguise it. In case of a doubt, simply ask your barber to tend to your beard with your next trim, then keep up the shape at home.

Full Beard

Growing a full beard is a rite of passage up there with learning to drive, drinking your first pint (not at the same time, mind) and buying your first ‘grown-up’ watch. But like skiing, losing weight or shooting hoops, it’s one of those things that’s decidedly harder than it looks. The fuller the beard, the more maintenance it requires and the more problems you’re likely to encounter. Take time to look after it, though, and you’ll always have something to stroke when the dog’s not around. [LOL] Of all, the full beard is the hardest to rock, partly because it’s such a statement. Guys with oval faces will have no problem making it work. Slim, angular jaws and narrow faces can be softened and rounded out by keeping the sides slightly longer. You can also make a rounder face look thinner by growing the hair on the front of your face slightly longer than the stuff around the sides considering this crafty contouring as whisker magic.

From the October 2020 issue of FHM India.