Handcrafting Masterpieces
As great as off the rack labels are, they simply cannot compete with bespoke fashion houses. As the proverb says, a tailor makes a man.
There is some innate quality in the hands of an experienced artisan that a machine can never emulate. In spite of some little imperfections, the quality and finish of anything bespoke, be it a shirt, suit, or even shoes, always appear to be significantly more. The mainreason behind this quality perhaps stems from the fact that each article that is stitched, glued or pressed together tells the story of both the maker, as well as the man wearing them. We bring you four such stories tellers
SS Hommes
Based out of Mumbai, SS Hommes is one of the finest bespoke suit makers in India. The attention to detail is immaculate as their artisans take 40 different measurements that ensure the fit is perfect for each client also mandating a minimum of 3 fittings sessions, before the final delivery. SandeepGonsalves, founder of SSHommes says, “Every garment is made from scratch because for each of our clients we measure and record everything that you can imagine, from the slope of the shoulder, to the angle of the spine so as to ensure that each piece is cut to perfection.”
Creating a perfect suit is a pain staking process, especially when using fabrics of the highest quality. Using fine fabrics such as Italian and English Worsted Wool, as well as pure blends of Cashmere, Silk, and Mohair, a customer is first shown the fabric swatches, and explained in depth what each fabric represents and would suit the wearer best. After this, there is the measurement process, which is usually conducted by a team of expert tailors. These tailors then construct the rudimentary silhouette of the garment. It is at this stage that the customized designs and patterns are incorporated into the suits. By the second fitting the suits start taking shape and an identity of its own, and by the third fitting, the final suit is paired with accessories to complete the complete ensemble.
With a team of 10 expert artisans, and the guidance and design expertise of Sandeep and Sarah Gonsalves, it takes SS Hommes about 4 weeks to complete one order.
But then, anything as exquisite as these suits takes time to make, and with prices starting at 35,000, they certainly don’t come cheap.
It’s My Life – IML Jeans
Everyone has a very intimate relation with their jeans, and yet, rarely do people personalise them. IML offers some unique and truly bespoke designs for denim. The have a three pronged approach to customisation. Once a customer visits their lounge or one of their several partner stores, their expert tailors guide them through the various fabrics, trims, and fittings, helping them decide what would suit them best. In about five days, they are ready with a rudimentary fitting, and get the customer for the final fitting. In another three days, they are ready with the jeans, complete with all the customisations that a client would normally request. “Sometimes it takes us about two or three days more, in case the custom design is complex and intricate,” says AdityaSinghal, Founder of IML Jeans. What sets IML apart is that each product is completely unique. All their products are designed in Italy, France and Japan, and put together by hand in their workshop in Gurugram, by a team of 20 expert artisans.
For materials, they turn only to the experts. “We source our materials only from the best companies across the globe. All our fabrics are responsible sourced from countries like Japan, Italy, Turkey, Ireland, Autralia, Germany and Austria. We also source some of the finest materials from Indian mills,”Aditya says.
Their products have found a cult following all over the world. “We regularly get order from countries like Russia and Ukraine. Globally, we have outlets in 12 cities, not counting the ones in India,” says Aditya
So how much does one shell out for a pair of jeans? Aditya says, “For a pair of jeans, which come with a lifetime warranty on trims and sewing, our pricing starts at 6,900 with a few customisations. We also have a hush hush luxury line which can retail up to 35,000 for a pair.”
Bombay Shirt Company
By bringing the best of technology and masterful craftsmanship together, Bombay Shirt Company has made a name for itself, in bespoke, made to measure shirts. “We have an online as well as a few brick and mortar stores,” says AkshayNarvekar, Founder of Bombay Shirt Company. They have a very user friendly website, which uses a proprietary algorithm to take measurements. For people visiting their brick and mortar stores, they have a team of stylists and tailors on board to help in finding the best possible fit, choosing the right fabric, style and accessories,.
“We do not compromise on quality, for any reason,” says Akshay, adding that they source their materials only from the best mills across India, as well as the world. “Once we receive an order, our production teams, all of whom are based out of various workshops in Bombay, get to work. We do not hold any inventory of shirts and start making everything from scratch, only after an order is received,” he continues.
It usually takes them around 10-14 days to complete an order and ship it. “For fabrics sourced from international mills, however, it sometimes takes up to 21 days,” says Akshay. And there is a good reason why they take their time. Each workshop is managed by a BSC employee who must have spent a minimum of four years working on quality control at the company. Each and every shirt that comes out of the atelier is scrutinised closely before it is dispatched.
With almost a dozen stores across various metros in India, and an online store with a global presence, the company also has stores in Dubai and New York. As for the price for their sophisticated craftsmanship, a basic shirt starts from 2,500, which considering what you get finally, seems like the bargain of the century.
House of Sunil Mehra
Although they are a complete fashion house, their collection of bespoke shoes really stand out. Crafted entirely in Italy, designers and artisans work together for a period of one and a half months to get customers nothing short of the best. Once a booking and a client’s preferences is received, designers get working on different mood boards and work out the patterns, colours and the design.The artisans in Italy start working only when the customer approves the design. In order to ensure that the shoe being crafted is of the perfect fit, often customers are asked to courier a shoe as a sample and a reference unit for the artisans to work from.
SagarMehra, Creative Director at the House of Sunil Mehra says that all the pieces, from the laces, to the monk straps are crafted from scratch, using nothing but the fines material. “The basic materials used for the body of the shoe are calf leathers, exotic leathers, patent leathers and sometimes even fabrics. However, materials vary, depending on the part of the shoe,” he says.
Although they have stores in Greater Kailash, New Delhi and Gurgaon, all their ateliers are in Italy, as the country is constantly pushing the envelope when it comes to designing and technology. “On top that, most of the best skilled leather craftsmen are from Italy.”
Apart from a strict quality assurance, the fashion house also provides a variety of follow up services. “A customer’s experience and satisfaction is of utmost importance for us. We provide a wide range of follow up services, till the time the customer gets the complete utility of the cost paid for the shoes,” says Sagar.
A shoe that is so exquisitely made, certainly does not come cheap. Sagar says, “The price usually depends the kind of designs and materials that are being opted for. A normal pair of shoe costs around 50,000 to 60,000 with some basic customisation. But often we have had to make shoes for around to 90,000.”
From the November 2018 issue of FHM India.
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