On the Monsoon Trail

Tucked away in the interiors of North-East India, some of these places are yet to receive the footfalls of crowds of tourists…exactly why it is the perfect time to visit these places now. Revive your parched souls with the sight, smells and sounds of these pristine valleys by yourself or with your partner and soak in the fervour of these serene landscapes.

Dzukou valley, Kohima, Nagaland

Anyone who manages to spend a reasonable time travelling across Nagaland, from the land of the Konyaks in Eastern Nagaland right up to the land of the Angamis in the state capital of Kohima will find the Naga people extremely hospitable. The green hills and crispy clouds give you company when you aren’t surrounded by these warm people is a bonus. For those who like their red meat, Naga cuisine should be right up there in the list of cuisines to try. Varieties of smoked and fresh meat, infused with local herbs and generous portions of bamboo shoot.

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Most of the state is best explored when the monsoons stop since the roads then become motorable. However this one place that you must visit during the monsoons, braving the roads is the Dzukou valley. Why? Because the Dzukou Lily blooms in this season.

At approximately 8000 feet you can see rivulets, flowers, herbs and shrubs spread across Dzukou’s lap. With the scenic and quaint villages of Jakhama and Viswema serving as bases for starting the trek, your experience of being one with nature starts the moment you arrive in Nagaland.

The scenic valley between the two northeastern states of Manipur and Nagaland is special because of the flowers it cradles, different in every season. Dzukou lily or not, Dzukou valley will remain enchanting. Clean them trekking boots already!

Mechuka, West Siang district, Arunachal Pradesh

With the nearest airport almost 500 km away in a different state, Mechuka is almost spotless as far as tourist footprints are concerned and a trek in the wilderness of such a region has to be described as trekking through unblemished nature. Camping along the way and cooking simple meals in the erstwhile Tibetan land makes you appreciate the simple things in life. The trek is moderate and a good pair of trekking shoes and a comfortable backpack would set you up for this easy yet beautiful trail.

If you fall asleep through your journey, long enough, to wake up in Mechuka, missing the road signs that give you a reality check, you may have to pinch yourself and yet the valley may seem unreal.

Find the hidden lakes in the uncultivable highlands of Mechuka valley as you leave the stray horses behind and embrace the cold air of the mountains. Eat and walk like the local Memba folks do and make merry in the wild.

From a complete shift in architectural pattern, with wood replacing brick and mortar and herds of stray horses interrupting your path or seen grazing at a distance, replacing the usual cow herds seen on Indian roads, you slowly tend to relate to the deep-rooted Tibetan influence that you have read online about.

The trip gets better when you are received by your warm homestay hosts who have been guided by the ChaloHoppo team to add to their already hospitable nature.

Traditional food preparation sessions, long nature walks and exploring Memba heirlooms (the major tribe inhabiting the valley) punctuate your Mechuka experience.

One of the most memorable hikes that has to be endured in the monsoons is the one to the shepherd’s home, up in the invisible hills.

Early in the morning, we trek up to a shepherd’s house hidden high up in the mountains of Mechuka. The first time we trekked up there, we didn’t believe someone lived so remotely in an already remote place. “He tends to his cows there till winter comes,” said our guide, a 7-year-old boy. Since he was talking about his grandfather Thinley knew what he was saying.

To meet Thinley’s grandfather we drive to Dorjeeling village, an absolutely breathtakingly beautiful place in an already surreal land. Park the vehicle in front of their house in the village and then hike for 2 hours to finally reach the incognito land. It is beyond us to explain in words how beautiful the valley looks as we continue our ascent. Upon finally crossing over to the other side you will see two houses perched on two different hills and huge cows grazing the meadows. One side of this pastureland looks like the famous Dzukou valley in Nagaland.

“The next few hours will be spent talking to Doge Phalle, the shepherd who used to trade his wares in Tibet before 1962 when the path between Mechuka and Tibet was open. Different varieties of churpi or Tibetan cheese, ghee chai, local eggs were served to us. You can expect something similar. His house seems to be preserved in time and takes you back to the time when Mechuka was a part of Tibet which is as recent as 1959.”

Mawlyngbna, East Khasi Hills

With abundant activities like river canyoning, kayaking, zip lining and lots of swimming, this trip is meant for those with an adventurous spirit. A trek that takes you right to the heart of a forest from where you move to challenge the waterfalls of a Khasi village as you cross it with bare feet and a rope to hold onto for dear life. There will be more relaxed times like when you kayak over still waters and enjoy nature walks and camp around a bonfire.

If you grew up in these villages of Meghalaya, you would never need an amusement park in your life. From serene spots in the jungle to exciting river activities and picturesque lakes, they have it all. Go find a pair of swimming trunks and decipher river canyoning, only possible during the monsoons.

The lesser known villages of Meghalaya are where the authentic experiences of the region are at its best. With numerous waterfalls, lakes, rivers, caves and unending meadows, these villages are the perfect getaway for the offbeat traveller.

You can choose to rough it out while you are river canyoning or just relax by kayaking over still waters. If you aren’t someone who enjoys chilly water then just take a walk around the village guided by the faint sound of cattle bells. If you are into photography or have been waiting to try your hand at poetry and enjoy diving into nostalgia, you might want to stay back forever.

Wah Rashi falls, Syntung, East Khasi Hills, Meghalaya

Meghalaya is blessed with several spectacular waterfalls, and there is no doubt that it is challenging to choose one over the other, yet we have a favourite! Endure a back-breaking journey to reach this hidden gem. Split into teams and start exploring the actual number of waterfalls, because there are so many and when tired come and take a dip in the blue waters or sit and meditate on the huge rocks around. The cascading Wah Rashi waterfalls encircled by sacred hills on all sides and inaugurated as recently as December 2015 is unquestionably one of our most loved waterfalls! A paradise for anyone who likes to walk the untraversed path, the Wah Rashi Falls should definitely be your weekend plan! This place needs to be visited in the monsoons because the waterfall becomes large and flows uninhibited.

Nongkhnum Island

Nongkhnum Island in Meghalaya discovered by school children in 1996 shows that one really needs to leave the kids alone. Is it the second largest river island after Majuli, or not is still under speculation, but one thing that is sure is the island is magical, for the lack of a better word. Waterfalls, sandy beaches, abundant meadows, huge trees, playful cattle; you bring a checklist and you will run out of ink ticking boxes!

Does one need electricity when the moonlight and the million twinkling stars light up the night sky? This is the question you may ask yourself when you are warming yourself by the bonfire and the smell of the roasting food tingles your already heightened senses. Shooting stars will be only one of those things that will tease your senses at night.

When the sun shines the glittering water will invite you for a dip and then a country boat ride shall lead you to one waterfall, where rainbows appear is a common sight.

If you aren’t the kind that likes to just sit back and enjoy, a 40 minute hike crossing multiple hills will certainly excite you, as the end of the hike, takes you to one of the prettiest waterfalls of Meghalaya.

Sangti Valley

If you find beauty in simplicity, Sangti Valley may be quite the place for you. Nestled between the hills of the West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh, this tiny valley etches beautiful memories for anybody who visits it. The Sangti river meanders through the valley, the sounds of which calm the body continuously. Watch the village come alive as you visit it in the rainy summer months. With agriculture, the primary occupation, in full swing during these months, spend some time actually helping and interacting with the locals and learn more about them. If you would rather spend some time enjoying what nature has to offer, walk along the river (which obviously is dotted with flowers of all kinds) till you reach the narrow hidden parts in the jungle where you can set up camp and do what you love, whether it be reading a book, playing an instrument or just plucking wild berries and taking a dip in the water to beat the heat.

If wildlife is your thing, wake up early and spot the endemic bird species and if you are lucky you may have a chance encounter with some of the deer’s that come down to the river once in a while.

From the July 2018 issue of FHM India.