Solitude in Sight

There are times when we seek the refuge of nature on our vacations. Stressed out by the busy schedule of our urban lives, we seek a quiet place to relax, rejuvenate and restore balance to our souls. The Kumaon region is a distinct part of Uttarakhand and is frequented by bird watchers, trekkers and nature lovers. It is characterised by rolling hills, expansive forests and salubrious climate. The rustic nature of Kumaon, and the simplicity of the village folk in this region allows one to wind down and experience the local flavours. After much deliberation, I chose Sattal as a weekend retreat because it checked off all my requirements.

There were various forest hikes, great eating options and a bunch of adventure activities. The base for entry into India’s Lake District is Kathgodam which is also the last rail head. The drive up to Sattal takes an hour from Kathgodam and goes through a densely forested region. I arrived at the relatively flat Mehragaon Valley which is well located as it provides easy access to Bhimtal, Sattal and Nainital. The valley itself was surrounded by hills. My gregarious local host, Chandra Mohan gave me a lot of insight into the region’s history. On a short walk in the evening, I could see that the region had a lot of cosy homestays and not too many large hotels and resorts.

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I was feeling slightly adventurous and wanted to stroll down to the lakes in the evening but was discouraged by the locals who narrated tales of bear and leopard sightings nearby. The next morning I set off for the lakes. On the approach road towards Sattal, there was a clearly demarcated walking path and a different motorable road. My host had convinced me to take the walking trail since I would have the chance to capture some rarely seen migratory as well local birds. The walking trail took me into the heart of a dense forest. It was a nippy December morning and I was glad that the sun was out and there was good visibility on the trail.

The trail was quite flat and I did not have to strain myself too much. After a couple of bends, I caught sight of Garud Tal. The lake was a steep descent from the trail and I decided to continue forward towards the main Sattal. The Sattal Christian Ashram was a major landmark on the trail. The ashram stood out in the backdrop of thick pine forests and had a collection of cottages. I strolled along the grounds for some time and read inscriptions that dated the establishment back to the 1930s.

Exploring Sattal

Beyond the ashram, the trail descended steeply to Sattal. I could see a narrow bridge and a lot of paddle boats and kayaks on the edge of the lake. A few disinterested locals were lounging around on the boats lazily while others were passing the time by playing cards. There were no other tourists and I relished the thought of having the lake to myself. After a short negotiation, I had a boat and a guide and was all set to sail on Sattal. Though there are paddle boats which people can sail by themselves, it is recommended to take a guide if one is unfamiliar. I saw a swarm of fish bouncing off the surface of the lake and on seeing my interest the guide informed me that fishing in the lake was a possibility.

He also told me that solo kayaking was a great draw for tourists and some brave souls went swimming in the open waters. The circumnavigation of Sattal took upwards of an hour and I was exhausted with all the consistent paddling. I imagined how blissful it would be to float on a tube in the middle of the lake, with pine forests all around me. I made a mental note to carry a floating tube and a wetsuit on my next visit. After the exercise, I craved food and visited one of the local shacks on the lake front. My host had told me about the delicious kadhi chawal which I proceeded to order. I paired it with a cold lemonade made from one of those giant lemons which are a famous produce of Kumaon.

Fatigue hit me after my meal and I called my host who agreed to pick me up and take me back by road. On the way back to the valley he showed me a few camping spots along the lake where locals organised overnight camping and late night boat rides for tourists.

Final Destination

“I came here 25 years ago for some work and was enchanted by the place. I established myself here and never looked back. There are many like me who have quit their urban lives and settled here,” said Chandra while I was packing my bags prior to my departure. My experience in Sattal was so fulfilling that I will return soon.

Other Activities Near Sattal

• Kayaking: You can rent a kayak on the shore of the lake.
• Hiking: There are a number of forest trails around Sattal.
• Rafting: The calm waters of the lake are perfect for rafting.
• Camping: There are quite a few campsites in the forests around the lake.
• Zip lining: Zip lines are installed over a bridge that spans across the lake.

From the January 2019 issue of FHM India.